Log Cabin Living

Foreword: Once upon a time... I lived in a log cabin on a mountaintop overlooking a peaceful valley. Abe Lincoln never had it so good. That time has passed, but the memories persist. A lucky few of you readers will remember the cabin I reveal below. Many others had experiences at a house vacation home in the mountains or at the shore, and have similar memories of house get-togethers.

This essay is intended to revive and edge those memories as well as to reveal what it was like to live in a genuine log cabin. Readers who are too young to have these experiences can find in these lines some background to the house folklore they may have heard over the years. So, read on. I hope you enjoy it and if you have recollections and experiences of your own, then by all means post an e-comment. It will add your offering to this essay.

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Origins

It was the time of World War Ii and I think the war was a factor in my parents' decision to buy the cabin. My immediate house consisted of parents Adlai and Elizabeth Magee and seven children (two sons were lost). I was the youngest. Our home was in Chevy Chase, Md. Dad owned a radio store in colse to Bethesda. In the early 1940s our house had made numerous weekend visits to Braddock Heights, Md., a society of boarding houses and a locally popular amusement park. Wwii meant restrictions on travel and that improved company at the limited resort. Although Braddock was in decline compared to earlier decades, patronage was good adequate to keep local businesses going. The park had several rides and slides, a fine merry-go-round, a roller skating rink and a limited train to ride. A colse to swimming pool completed the amusements available. A trolley brought day visitors from colse to Frederick, five miles east. A small store doubled as a post office. Jim Crow was alive and kicking in those days. I clearly remember a sign at the entrance to the park that included the admonition, "This park is for use by white gentiles and their servants only." I recall staying at several dissimilar boarding houses, one of which was the Coblentz Mountain House. The motion to us was that the altitude was a blessing for me (I was prone to bronchitis) and for my Father (also troubled by respiratory problems). Alas, Braddock Heights moderately deteriorated over the succeeding years. (Braddock Heights was named after Gen. Braddock, a form in the French and Indian War. He led a force of soldiers west along route 40, an early national highway, marching over Braddock mountain, as it came to be known.)

The Cabin

It was about 1942 when my parents decided to buy a vacation home near Braddock mountain. I was seven. The spot they excellent was pretty remote. If you travel north along the crest of Braddock mountain you will be driving on Ridge road. A limited over a mile up the road they bought a small, two-room, tin-roofed log cabin on three acres. The lot had a west view of Middletown valley. The Potomac river gap near Harper's Ferry, W.Va. Could be seen from a angle of the lot. There was only a scattering of houses along the road in those days. The pavement ended a hundred yards before the cabin, turning into a dirt road. Farther along the dirt road on the west side were the Clipp farm and then a small dairy farm, where, in later years, I was sent from time-to-time to buy fresh milk. I suppose my parents (particularly my Father) saw the possible that the cabin and it's location had. To a seven-year-old it was the start of a great adventure. Dad rather grandly named the place "Catoctin Oaks," for the four gorgeous oak trees on the lot, and the Catoctin mountain chain which included Braddock. This was in the Blue Ridge mountains. I can't shed any light on who built the cabin and when. I believe my parents bought it from the Malones, who lived just south on Ridge road and who owned many acres in the area.

The cabin itself was as bare and rustic as you can imagine. No electricity, no indoor plumbing (not even an out-house), only an outside well with a hand pump for (non-drinking) water. Heat was ready from a handsome stone fireplace. The interior had a large, open area with a sleep loft above the north side. And an ample contribute of snake skins. There was an attached shed on the valley side, used for cooking. The description of the inside of the cabin may sound customary to those of you who have watched the Tv show, "Little House on the Prairie." If you recall the interior of the Tv house, the layout was very much the same as the cabin: a large room on one side, a central fireplace, and sleeping areas behind the fireplace (parents below, girls above on a loft). (My wife Thelma suggested I title this essay, "Little House on the Mountain." I took a pass on that idea.)

The lack of facilities meant two things: First, the cabin could only be used for day trips. (The woods provided an open-air out-house.) Second, Dad soon began what became an almost endless series of modifications and improvements to the cabin. But the main feature of the place was the construction. Yes, it was a real, honest-to-goodness log cabin, its walls made of pine logs with mortar-filled cracks. The attached photograph shows the cabin about 1950; this is a photograph of an oil painting by my sister Elizabeth. Today the painting hangs above the fireplace in my home in Gettysburg. As soon as practicable, a well was drilled, an electric line was run in, and the "valley room," kitchen, basement and bathroom were added. All this took time, of course. Meanwhile, we would "rough it" on visits.

Here's an piquant anecdote: building the Valley Room required a good bit of excavation. It so happened that Camp Detrick in Frederick housed German prisoners-of-war; the prisoners were hired out to local citizens. (I think the prisoners were captured U-boat crews.) So for a time we had a crew of young, blond workers plus an armed guard. I observed that the prisoners took extra observation of my teen-aged sisters whenever the girls would show up. (Of course, there were no incidents.) This memory of the prisoners tells me that the cabin's major modifications were completed by the end of Wwii.

Eventually, the cabin became favorable for extended visits.

Cabin life

When the seasons permitted, we (my parents and I) would make the one- hour drive to spend a weekend at the cabin. In summer, stays would enlarge to weeks, with Dad coming up for the weekend. Our house weren't the only ones to use the cabin. Aunt Corona and Uncle Frank often borrowed it for parties with their friends, mostly from St. Ann's parish in Nw Washington. In fact, I'm sure mountain living gave Aunt Corona and Aunt Mary the idea to buy a lot next door and build a relinquishment home on Ridge road (now Tom and Jane Magee's home).

From the late '40s on, my parents hosted house get-togethers regularly. The cabin soon became the focus for an extended family. Hardly a Sunday went by without house or visitors stopping by and being served cocktails and dinner by my kind parents. Marilyn and Jack Barrett with their house were regular visitors Uncle Paul Magee would roar down the driveway in his Plymouth and before long he and his brother would be trading good-natured barbs. His sons, Paul, Jr., Jim and Bernard came by, families in tow. The Renehan cousins visited from Baltimore every summer; these were two ladies who always greeted me with big hugs and kisses, much to my embarrassment. I referred to them as the Kissing Cousins. "Otherwise" Burdett, the cabin's building contractor, would occasionally show up with his family. (He earned his nickname from his frequent use of "otherwise".) The Daly house and the Klaks from Bethesda were occasional visitors, as were other friends and relatives, many from Montgomery county.

Many of these visits were unannounced but mum always seemed to be able to stretch the food ready and make everyone happy. The best times were those summer days when we would have an outdoor feast -- barbecued spare ribs (I was the designated cook at the Bbq pit), a bushel of steamed crabs, or fried chicken dinners were the favorites. After a softball game in the "front yard" we would have a round of cocktails while sitting on the stone patio, then line up at the buffet table for potato salad, sliced tomatoes, baked beans, buttered hot dog rolls, etc. Every house visit was made a extra occasion by my parents, but there were two times each year that everyone looked forward to. Suzanne and Frank Maddox and their children returned from their home for a visit that always became a house get-together. And every August, Uncle Will and Aunt Celeste Hennessy and their four daughters would visit from Wilmington, Del., for a few days bringing a car full of treats and delicacies. Cool or rainy weather meant the feast was moved indoors. There were many days that we watched the sun setting over South mountain while sitting in the valley room.

All of these visits continued for years. Dad sold the Tv/radio store in Bethesda c1951 and we moved to the cabin to live year-round soon after. The grandchildren of my parents must all have their own memories of visits to the cabin. Their amount grew over the years to, by my count, twenty-two in all. Despite the large number, Granny and Paw-Paw were able to make each one of them feel special. One single treat for visiting grandchildren was for Granny to send them up the hill to pick ripe blueberries which she would make into blueberry pancakes. That's an example of what my mum was like.

Dad was a extra man. Two of his strongest characteristics were his integrity and his sense of humor. I'll give an example of each trait. I used to tag along with Dad on his local company trips. One time, during Wwii, Dad made a delivery of several cartons of radio tubes under a government compact he had bid on. I learned that he won the bid because his price was at-cost. I asked him why he didn't contain some money for profit and he said simply, that this was his offering to the war effort. One clever prank that he pulled on a visiting friend complicated some target convention behind the cabin. I watched him as he loaded a.22 nine-shot revolver with two dissimilar cartridges -- one, a usual.22 slug, and the other a "rat shot," a limited shotgun shell, filled with tiny pellets. He loaded the gun with the cartridges in alternate chambers and we went out to join the waiting sucker - I mean "guest" - to fire off a few rounds. To perfect the charade, Dad fixed a small piece of metal hanging on a string as our target. Let me point out that at ten paces it would be well difficult to hit a two inch wide target with a revolver. But with rat shot it would be almost impossible to miss. So they took turns firing, the guest just missing every shot, and Dad causing the hanging target to swing every time. I'm sure that friend of Dad's went away with the impression that Dad was the best shot this side of Buffalo Bill. There is one thing I haven't forgiven my Father for. When he was living in St. Louis many years before, an old chef gave Dad a formula for Bbq sauce but he made him promise not to give it to anyone else. Well, Dad took that formula to the grave rather than break his word. That's too bad because I sure could use it to improve my Bbqs.

I have my own memories of cabin life. I particularly enjoyed exploring the woods below the cabin. A telescope gave me a way of exploring the sky, and also to tell time by the clock in the white-spired Lutheran church in Middletown, three miles distant. I slept by a window facing west. On a clear night, I could well see stars set over South mountain. I knew that was a extra caress even then. And, yes, the sound of raindrops falling on a tin roof does lull you to sleep.

Closing

The improvements my parents made ultimately covered up the logs, inside and out. When Dad and mum died in 1977, we sold the cabin to a new owner who remodeled it into a two-story house, no longer recognizable as a cabin. But the cabin, despite all its memories and charm, was only a buildings of pine logs. If life at the cabin was extra it wasn't due to a rustic home on a Maryland mountain top, but to what was inside, at the heart of the cabin, Adlai and Elizabeth Magee.

Log Cabin Living

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LG LFC25765SW 33-Inch Width French Door Refrigerator, White - With great looks and great features, this refrigerator is more than just a pretty set of doors. It features a generous 25 cubic feet of space in a design meant to keep it all organized. Their Smart Cooling system, which controls air flow, temperature, and humidity, helps keep your food fresh. And the Linear Compressor is confidently backed by a 10-year warranty. Features: 24.9 cu.ft. - The largest capacity for 33-Inch Width; Contoured doors; hidden hinges; LED lighting; Smart Cooling technology maintains optimal humidity and temperature levels; Digital sensors constantly monitor conditions within the refrigerator; Multi-Air Flow design means strategically-placed vents in every section surround your food with cool air; 2 Humidity-controlled crispers maintain humidity level, extending the life of your fruits and vegetables; 4 Split, Spill Protector Tempered Glass Shelves; Full Width, Temperature-Controlled; Glide N Serve Drawer; 6 Gallon Size Door Baskets; DuraBase Solid Drawer Base; Digital Temperature Controls; Door Alarm; LoDecibel Quiet Operation; Overall Dimensions: 35-3/8D x 69-7/8H x 32-3/4W (inches).

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productive Techniques For Eliminating coarse House Mice

There's an old saying in business. "Build a best mouse trap and the world will beat a path to your door." While this adage holds true when it comes to products and services that the group wants to buy, it doesn't necessarily mean that we need best mouse traps for trapping real mice, because the hidden isn't so much in the trap you use as in the techniques employed. Beyond that, traps are not the whole answer. There are other measures you can take to keep your place mouse free.

Mouse Habits and Life Cycle

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Control begins with comprehension your target species. The coarse House Mouse, Mus, musculus, infests homes and businesses throughout North America, causing millions of dollars in damage annually. This species thrives in human busy structures where food, water, security and nesting materials are effortlessly available. Mice prefer to remain and forage within 10 feet of their nests (up to 30 feet when necessary) and their movements are not just horizontal. They will trip vertically as well. They can infest any part of a home or industrial structure. Mice defecate and urinate wherever they go. Their droppings can include several disease organisms, including bacteria that cause Salmonella. (And in the case of the Deer Mouse, Hanta Virus, but this is for other article.) For this hypothesize they are a group and private condition concern.

Description

The adult house mouse is gray or brown, with small eyes and relatively large ears, weighing almost ½ to 1 ounce. Its over-all length, including its 3-4 inch tail, is 5.5 to 7.5 inches. In any given year the female will have five to ten litters, each consisting of five to six young. Gestation is 19 to 21 days, with the young maturing in 6 to 10 weeks. The typical house mouse will live 9 to 12 months. Under ideal conditions, unchecked by predators, disease and deaths caused by other factors, one pair, has the potential of giving rise to a habitancy of almost 1 million individuals, in only 12 months! If you don't believe it, do the math yourself.

Prevention

Prevention falls into three categories: Exclusion, elimination of food sources and discharge of harborage.

Exclusion:

Any time of year, but especially in the fall, as temperatures begin to drop, mice will try to gain entry into homes and other buildings. Construction owners should thoroughly eye structures to ensure that there are no openings of 1/4 inch or larger as these are easy entry points for these rodents. Check doors and windows. Be sure they seal tightly. Replace defective thresholds and sweeps. Check walls where wires or pipes enter the structure, calk and seal gaps. eye all attic, crawl space and carport vent screens to ensure that they are tight and have no holes larger than 1/4 inch. Also check crawl space doors for a tight seal. Have a look at the areas where perpendicular roofs come together. There are often gaps in these areas that will need to be closed. Be sure that all rooftop vents are properly screened.

Elimination of Food Sources:

Be sure that potential outdoor food sources are eliminated or cleaned up. Pet food should never be left out over night. Fallen tree fruits should be cleaned up daily. Keep garbage receptacles tightly closed. Indoors, be sure that food, including pet food, is properly stored in tightly fitting packaging or in a refrigerator or freezer. Food should never be left out over night and food residues should be cleaned from all surfaces. It is best to have a metal indoor trash container, with a tightly fitting lid.

Removal of Harborage:

Harborage discharge is a vital step in reducing the potential for mouse invasion into any structure. Construction debris, piles of brush and anything else that provides cover or security for mice must all be removed. Trim vines and thick ground cover back away from the building.

Baiting With Toxic Baits

The normal rule is to bait outdoor and trap indoors. With indoor baiting the animals are likely to die in hidden and inaccessible areas of the buildings and originate an unpleasant odor. If you must use baits inside, make sure they are placed in locations that children and pets cannot get to them. There are mouse bait stations on the shop that hold baits inside them, but just to be safe it is still suggest that you place these out of reach of children and pets.

If you have a large habitancy of mice outdoors and wish to reduce the chances of the entering your home or business, you may wish to use baits to lower their numbers. In this situation most pest control experts very strongly suggest using tamper-resistant rodent bait stations that can be anchored down, with solid block baits fixed on spindles or bars, firmly locked into the station, so pets and children can't pick them up and shake to bait out. To be safe, it is placing the stations in areas where children and pets won't get to them, but the mice will is recommended. Place the stations in such a way that the entry holes are closest to a hard surface where mice are likely to feel their way around.

Trapping (The adored recipe of Mouse Control)

The adored recipe of controlling mouse populations is trapping. This is true for a integrate of reasons. One is that you know immediately what your success rate is. The other is that the dead are nothing else but found and removed, before any odor can develop.

There are a lot of traps on the shop these days but the old fashioned, snap trap is still the simplest and best. And mass trapping is the best technique, especially with heavy to severe infestations.

The rule of thumb for how many traps you use is generally twice as many traps as you think there are mice. Don't be stingy. The more traps, the more chances you have for success.

Use the most traps in the areas of highest activity. These areas can be identified by the large numbers of droppings. They are ordinarily near quarterly nesting and feeding sites. Traps should also be placed in the active run areas where mice ordinarily travel.

Mice have poor vision and use surfaces, such as walls, to find their way around their environment. Place traps perpendicular to these surfaces. Orient them so that the bait pedestal is nearest to the wall, since this is most likely where the mouse will be travelling and be most apt to find the bait. It also takes advantage of the mouse being in the target area as the bail snaps (toward the surface). Place 3 or more traps next to one other so mice can't just jump over them.

Mice are generally attractive about changes in their environments and will explore them almost immediately. This gives you the advantage when you first place the traps and gives you supplementary advantages when you move them around. Most experts suggest varying the placement of traps at weekly intervals, within the active areas, to keep the mice interested. You may also wish to leave the traps unbaited and unset for a few days after a week or two, then begin using them again. This can be helpful if the mice have narrowly escaped being caught and have become trap shy.

Contrary to the popular notion, mice aren't nothing else but very fond of cheese. They do like dried fruits, nuts and will, sometimes, go for meat. Raisins and Craisins are a good choice, because they are attractive to mice and are easy to skewer with the bait holder. They hold pretty firmly to the pedestal, production them more difficult to remove, thus increasing the chances that the trap will be triggered. It is sometimes helpful to smear a little peanut butter on the bait to growth its attractiveness. Mice are also attracted to nesting materials so cotton balls or fabrics may also work as bait. Don't be afraid to mix and match all of these baits to see what works best in your situation.

If, after following these steps, you still have a problem with mice try calling a expert to help in locating supplementary entrance points, identifying more areas of operation and conducting a expert trapping program. The technician will have more knowledge, a wide range of taste and be best adequate to accomplish the task successfully.

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Refrigerator Buying Guide - Tips You Need To Know When Buying A New Refrigerator

Buying a new refrigerator can be a daunting experience. Reading straight through all the refrigerator reviews, refrigerator ratings and consumer recommendations can be mind boggling. After all, there are so many separate models to pick from in addition to all the separate brands, styles, even colors. So where do you start?

Well, the easiest place to begin is by asking yourself the following questions:

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1) How Much Space Do You Need?: The space inside a refrigerator is expressed in Cubic Feet. Considering most people don't understand what a cubic foot represents, think of it this way. You need about Ten Cubic Feet of interior storage capacity per 2 people.

This 10 cubic feet is for freezer space as well as refrigerator space. So, outline about 7 cubic feet of refrigerator space and 3 cubic feet of freezer space per 2 people.

Granted, even though that's the rule of thumb, you have to consider your definite space needs such as:
How big is your family? - If you have a house of four, outline you'll need at least a 20.0 cubic foot fridge. Are you a Vegetarian? - If you are a vegetarian, you won't need as much freezer space or internal meat drawers. You'll want as much refrigerator space as you can handle to be sure you have the space for your fresh fruits and vegetables. How will your house grow, or shrink? - Are your kids in college and about to flee the nest? Do you have a baby on the way or elderly parents captivating in? All of these factors are things to consider when development a refrigerator purchase. consider that most refrigerators last about 10 years, so factor in how your house will be growing or shrinking over that time period so that you don't have to keep buying new refrigerators.

2) What Kind of Refrigerator Will Fit into Your Kitchen?: It sounds silly, but there have been a number of people that have purchased a new refrigerator only to get it home and find out that the new fridge doesn't fit into their existing kitchen. So, take measurements before you go refrigerator shopping.

Factor in not only where the fridge will be sitting, but also how far out the door will swing. After all, you don't want to get your new fridge home and then find out you can't open it!

Keep in mind that counter depth refrigerators are very popular, but they often lack the storage capacity that most people need. So, consider this when you're shopping. Counter depth by the way means that the front face of the refrigerator will sit flush with the existing counter top, rather than sticking out. It looks much nicer, but it's not always the right option for everybody.

3) Color Choices: There's good and bad news with refrigerator colors -- the good news is there aren't too many to pick from -- and you guessed it, that's also the bad news.

Refrigerators typically come in white, black, stainless steel, bisque (or beige) and a stainless steel alternative called, satina. Satina is normally economy than stainless and easier to maintain, but it doesn't always (depending on the brand) look as nice.

The days of avocado green and lemon yellow are gone for the moment.

So, what do you do if you need a separate color? Well, many refrigerators have attachable panels that affix to the face of the refrigerator that allows you to make it any color your desire. Most people like to blend their refrigerator into their existing cabinetry by getting panels that match the wood work. Ge Monogram, Kenmore Elite and Kitchenaid offer this option and all have performed well in a number of online refrigerator reviews.

4) Type of Refrigerator: The type of refrigerators available are:
Side by Side - Where the freezer and refrigerator are next to each other Top Freezer - Where the freezer is mounted on the top of the refrigerator Bottom Freezer -- There the freezer is mounted on the lowest of the refrigerator French Door Refrigerator -- Which is also referred to as a lowest freezer because it has two split (side by side) doors on the front with a pull out drawer freezer on the bottom. Built In Refrigerator -- Can be any of the above styles, but the refrigerator is built into the existing cabinetry and private away with the stylized color panels mentioned above. Compact Refrigerator -- Also called a "dorm refrigerator", the contract refrigerator is excellent for game rooms, spare rooms, garages or house areas.

5) Best Refrigerator Brands: We're always reviewing separate models of refrigerators by a wide variety of manufacturers. In all of the refrigerator reviews that we've done, only a handful of manufacturers rise to the tops as leaders -- so these are the brands to consider and brands to avoid:

General Electric: Ge, Ge profile and Ge Monogram are all excellent choices and rate very well with consumers. The Ge Aurora brand (sold exclusively at The Home Depot) was above average, but did Not rate as well as the Ge or Ge Profile brands.

Consider:

Amana: Amana has consistently been rated by consumer Reports as one of the best performing refrigerator brands. Our testing proves the same as well. Amana is one to consider.

Kenmore: Sears has had its ups and downs with its many inside brands, but Kenmore consistently has led the pack with high quality, durable and affordable refrigerators. The Kenmore Elite was especially outstanding.

Whirlpool: Whirlpool has been development high potential products for decades. They are now the parent brand of Amana, Maytag and JennAir. Whirlpool is top notch.

Lg: Although they lack a bit in customer service, the Lg French Door Refrigerators are some of the most affordable and captivating units on the market. Additionally, Lg business models for other reknown brands such as Kenmore and Ge among others.

Samsung: Samsung has some of the most innovative features on the market. For the price, it's hard to beat Samsung in both potential and list of features. right on one to consider.

We hope this helps you as you journey out into the world of refrigerator shopping.

Refrigerator Buying Guide - Tips You Need To Know When Buying A New Refrigerator

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construction a Shed - A Beginner's Guide

If this is your first time construction a shed, you may feel a slight intimidated. There are hundreds of different types, designs, and sizes of sheds. Some are very conventional in their look, while others are somewhat unique. There are several questions you need to ask yourself prior to starting your construction project. The first query to ask is what is the former purpose of my shed? Will it only be used for storage, or is it a specialized construction to meet a specific need? If it is a warehouse shed, what kind of things will I be storing? This could help decide the construction of the floor, the thickness of the walls, and whether it needs to be insulated or not. Do I want a concrete floor or a wooden one? Will my shed need windows, and will I need to run power to the building? Will I be storing lawn equipment or perishable goods? Do I want shelving or cabinets inside the shed? Where would my shed best fit in the space I have, and does it need to blend with other buildings nearby? Are there any construction ordinances that would keep me from having the shed I want? Sheds larger than a specified quadrate footage often times wish a construction permit. If your home is part of a Home Owners relationship (Hoa), you should considered gawk your covenants, codes, and restrictions (Cc&Rs). Your construction may need to be approved by the Hoa board, prior to starting your project. Some things they may consider are aesthetics, along with but not slight to color, size, roofing material, and landscaping surrounding the shed. When deciding on where you want to build your shed, consider its function. Will you need a large door or a duplicate door or extra passage to the door, along with a sidewalk or stepping stones? Will you be provocative things in and out of the warehouse area? How heavy are these items, and will you need to roll them or carry them when provocative them? What kind of tools will I need in order to build a shed? How much time to I have to devote to this project?

Types of sheds:

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The most common shed is a warehouse shed. However, there are a collection of warehouse sheds. Here are just a few: tool sheds, toy sheds, wood warehouse sheds, motorcycle sheds, household warehouse sheds, organery sheds, lawn sheds, grain sheds, a blend warehouse shed and playhouse.

Sizes of sheds:

Sheds come in a wide collection of sizes. One of the smallest size is a 4 x 4. One of the more favorite size sheds is an 8 x 10, which has 80 quadrate feet of warehouse space. Larger sheds can be as big as 20 x 30 or larger. The size of your shed may depend on the available area in which you have to build. This can be a challenge in smaller yards or in yards that have severe slopes. It may be that you need a total of 100 quadrate feet of flooring, but you have a long and narrow area to build on. Rather than construction a 10 x 10 building, you may have to go with an 8 x 16 shed. Also due to available space, you may have an unusual 7 x 4 or an 8 X 5 shed.

Roof styles and pitch:

There are three main styles of shed roofs. The type that carries the name "shed roof" probably isn't the most popular, although it is less complicated, and easier to build, than the other two. This type of roof only has one side that slopes, normally from the front side down to the back side. Occasionally, it will slope from one side to the other. The hipped roof has four sides of the roof all sloping down, with eves all the way around the bottom side. The gable style roof has a more open look. With this style of roof, you will see the shape of an upside down V. Other types of roofs are the gambrel, or barn style, a Dutch hip roof, a flat roof, and a mansard or French style roof.

The pitch of the roof describes how steep it is. The pitch of a roof is measured in vertical rise, in relation to the horizontal span. This is also known as the slope in geometry. In the United States, slope is typically shown in inches per foot of horizontal span. So if a roof rises 4 inches for each foot of surface, the pitch would be a "4:12 pitch". If you live in an area of the country that receives a lot of snow, you may want to increase the pitch of your roof, so the snow will slide off the roof more easily. A flat roof in that environment could potentially collapse, if sufficient snow was to gain on it.

Roofing materials:

Materials for a shed roof can be as simple as a roll of asphalt roofing. Occasionally, you will see clay or tile shingles, but due to their high cost, those aren't used very often. Your roof can also be covered with a extra corrugated metal. Wood shake shingles were at one time very popular, but due to fire danger, have been outlawed in many parts of the country, and cannot be used in new construction. The most common type of shingle used on a shed is the composition, or asphalt shingle. There are different styles, and different thicknesses of asphalt shingles. Based on their composition, these shingles are ordinarily rated by years of warranty. You can buy shingles with a 20 year warranty, 30 year warranty, or even higher.

When buying shingles, they are purchased by the square. There are three bundles of asphalt shingles in a square. Each bundle contains twenty-seven shingles. A quadrate of shingles will typically cover 100 quadrate foot of roof. So, when measuring the total quadrate feet of roofing, you can divide that by 100, and know about how many squares of shingles you will need. A modern green approach may be to also apply solar panels, if the roof is facing South East to South West.

Siding materials:

The siding you put on your shed, in expanding to determining the final look of the building, will also decide how well it holds up in safe bet parts of the country, and weather can be a big determining factor. There is a fiber cement siding that holds up absolutely well. It can break more absolutely when cutting, but is molded to look just like real wood. Paint holds to it absolutely well and it doesn't need painted as often. Aluminum or vinyl siding also holds up well. If your house is stucco, you may choose to match your house. However, one qoute you will encounter with stucco is cracking over time. There is also a fiber board which is made up of pressed board with surface resins and adhesives pressed or molded to look wood. If this is kept sealed and painted, it holds up fairly well in most climates. Any way it may not do well in extreme cold weather. You can buy this material in a 4 x 8 foot sheet. It also comes in 16 foot lap planking 8" wide or 16 ft. X 14 in. Wide. The fiber cement can also be purchased in the above mentioned horizontal sizes.

Buying a Good Set of Shed Plans:

Once you have decided what kind of shed you want to build, and what materials you want to use, choose a good set of plans to use that will match what you have in mind. There are a lot of shed plans on the internet to choose from. Make sure you read through the plans thoroughly and considered prior to starting your project. The set of plans will probably list all the tools you will need along with, all of the materials needed. Take your list of materials with you to your local lumber business to save you from too many return trips. You should enjoy doing your own do it yourself project. When it is complete, you can feel a real sense of accomplishment. Good luck, and happy building!

construction a Shed - A Beginner's Guide

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A Look At Refrigerator Size

In general, refrigerator sizes may range from 2 cubic feet to as high as 30 cubic feet. On the average, most homes used refrigerators fluctuating from 18 to 26 cubic feet. For a family of four, the ideal size is 19 to 22 cubic feet. Here we will look at the distinct dimensions of refrigerators available in the store today.

A free standing side by side refrigerator has a height of 66 to 70" and a width of 32 to 36 inches. Without the door and handle, it has a depth of 28 inches to 29.5 inches. A counter depth side by side measures 35 to 36 inches wide and 24 inches deep without the door. It is ordinarily 68.5 inches to 72.5" high.

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The free standing French door lowest freezer has a height of 68 5/8 to 70", width of 33 to 36 inches, and depth of 28.25 to 29.5 inches. The refrigerator size of a built-in side by side fridge is 23.5 to 25" deep, 42 to 48 inches wide, and 84 inches high.

In the case of the counter depth French door bottom, it has dimensions of 35 ¾ to 36" wide, depth of 23 ¾ inches to 24 inches, and height of 69 5/8 to 71 inches. Built-in French door lowest freezers are 42 to 48 inches wide and 84 inches high. It has a depth of 23.5 to 25".

Free standing lowest freezers measures 29 5/8 to 36" wide, 30" deep, and 66 ¾ to 70 inches high. On the other hand, a counter depth lowest freezer has a width of 36 inches, height of 69 to 70 inches, and depth of 23 to 25 inches. The built-in lowest freezer has a depth and height of 24" and 82 to 84 inches, respectively. Its mean width is 35 inches.

A top freezer is 28 to 36 inches wide, has a depth of 25 to 28", and height of 61 to 69 inches. The ageement refrigerator measures 17 3/8 to 24 inches wide, 19 inches high, and 13 to 17 inches deep.

When it comes to refrigerator sizes, the right option would be thought about by any factors. For families, one foremost factor that can work on the option is the estimate of children in the household. Aside from that, the special diet requirement of the family also plays an foremost role in the decision on the size of refrigerator.

In addition, the kind of food you like to eat will also need to be considered. A large refrigerator would be required if you are fond of enchanting guests. When the capacity of the refrigerator is your major consideration, French door and side by side varieties offers more space. The side by side freezer provides the biggest freezer while the French door and lowest freezer offers the next largest.

The refrigerator size is one of the most foremost appliances in the house so you need to give it your due consideration. With allowable information about the distinct dimensions and types of refrigerator, looking the right one for you can be easy.

A Look At Refrigerator Size

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Growing Organic Raspberries

Raising Raspberry Facts
Growing organic raspberries have a dual usage; berries for eating and leaves for tea. Raspberry leaves can be dried and used for herbal and healthful teas. Growing organic raspberries comprise principal amounts of antioxidants which have been proven to heighten your farranging vascular health. There are two main types to be aware of when growing raspberries: the June-bearing and the Ever-bearing varieties. June-bearing raspberries are picked in the late spring typically for around 4 to 6 weeks and furnish heavily while this time. Ever-bearing raspberries don't furnish as many berries, some varieties will bear fruit throughout the spring and summer, while other varieties will furnish once in the spring and once in the fall.

When to Plant rasperries
Raspberry canes grow for 2 seasons. The first year a new green cane, the primocane, grows; it develops bark, then goes dormant for the winter. The cane is called a floricane in its second year; it produces fruit, then dies. The roots, however, continue to send up new primocanes annually. Raspberry slips are commonly planted in the early spring after the ground thaws in the North. In the South, you can plant raspberry slips in the fall or early spring.

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Best Locations to Plant Raspberries
Raspberries like full sun. We tried planting them in partial shade a few years ago, and they simply never grew well. Areas with cold winters are preferable for June-bearing raspberries. New varieties are being developed, though, that grow well in Southern climates. Pick soil that drains well, has high organic content, and is slightly elevated if possible. To test drainage, dig a 12 inch deep by 12 inch quadrilateral hole and fill it with water. If the water's drained from the hole in under 3 hours, your soil drainage is adequate. Don't plant too close to trees, and don't plant your berries where raspberries have been planted recently.

Soil Prep for Raspberries
Raspberries prefer slightly acidic soil below 7.0 pH level. Optimally, it should be around 6.0, and never below 5.5. Compost and composted manure will provide most, if not all, the nutrients needed by raspberries. Once you've selected the area you're going to plant your berry slips in, prepare the ground by deep-mixing several inches of compost or composted manure into the soil at least 12 inches deep into a 24 inch wide row. Space your rows 48 to 72 inches apart from edge to edge. This will make the plant 6 to 8 feet apart. Remember, you want your berries to have good nutrients for years to come, so you can hardly overdo the compost. You can also side-dress existing canes with composted manure to bolster production.

Choosing the Best Varieties for your Area
Raspberries are in the "rubus" family, and are known as brambles. There are three berry color varieties you can grow - red, black, or a combination of red and black known as purple raspberries. As always, it's a wise operation to call your county postponement if you're unfamiliar with raspberry diseases in your area. They'll be able to suggest you on varieties that are resistant to diseases in your local area.

Containerized Raspberries
If you have limited space or live in a rental house where the landlord won't allow you to garden, you can grow raspberries in containers. You'll want to use a good sterile potting mix to avoid soil pathogens if you're going to grow raspberries in containers. Add fullness of composted manure to the mix, and put it into a 3 to 7 gallon holder with several drain holes in the bottom. A five gallon bucket is about the right size for one plant. Plant the root slip 3/4 of an inch under the soil surface. Add composted manure annually as needed.

Planting Raspberries in Your Garden
In the early spring, after you've purchased a collection (or two) you like that is resistant to coarse diseases in your area from a reputable nursery, you're ready to plant! Soak your plant roots in a compost tea (a cup or two of compost in a 5 gallon bucket of water should work) for around 6 hours prior to planting. In your pre-marked rows (prepped per the instructions above), insert your shovel as deep as it will go into the soil, and with a rocking-back-and-forth motion, open up the soil and insert the raspberry plant to where the dirt covers the roots. You should be able to tell where the root ends and the cane starts.

Make sure you spread the roots laterally to give the plant roots a good start. Put one plant every 24 to 36 inches apart in your rows. The distance between the rows should be around 6 to 8 feet. It is a good institution to "trellis" your raspberries to keep them from falling over as the canes can grow up to 8 feet tall. The way we do it is to use 4 x 4 inch posts with 36 inch 2 x 4's nailed horizontally at 2 feet from the ground and 4 feet from the ground (you can also add a third horizontal bar at 6 feet off the ground if you need to). Then string wire between the horizontal 2 x 4's to keep the canes standing vertically. while the mid to late summer, as the primocanes are growing rapidly, you'll need to make sure, every couple of days, that the canes stay inside the wires as it becomes difficult to try to shove them back under them if they get too tall.

Getting the Most from Your Raspberries
The more bees you have in your patch, the more berries you'll harvest. Keep the area between the rows weed free by rototilling commonly or mulching. Another choice is to plant a cover crop. As mentioned previously, a trellis theory or other supports is key to holding your plants vertical - and output high. It is a good practice, in the spring before the leaves begin growing, to prune the tops of your floricanes to 5 or 6 feet in height. One trick for getting more fruit is to cut off the primocanes at about 30 to 36 inches. This will force them to put out branches, giving you more fruit output that is easy to reach as well.

After your fruit has been harvested, cut off all the dying floricanes at ground level to give the primocanes as much room as possible to grow. In the spring, thin out the new floricanes so that just the thickest and strongest canes remain. These will furnish more fruit than leaving all the canes in the ground. If you need to, you can sidedress your canes with composted manure in the spring. Usually, if you've mixed in fullness of composted manure prior to the preliminary planting, you shouldn't need to add much.

This past gardening season we tested a liquid organic leaf spray fertilizer called Organic organery Miracle. We sprayed most of our organery plants with Ogm. The sprayed veggies were more robust than the un-sprayed plants, and the flavor was excellent as well - sweeter and juicier. We're excited this year to continue the experiment as we were impressed with the size and flavor of the organery crops we sprayed.

Mulching & Weeding
Lawn clippings and barley straw are two of the best mulches for growing raspberries. I like to spread a few inches of mulch between the rows and around the plants to keep the soil moist and the weeds under control. It also provides organic matter for your soil over the summer as it begins to decompose. Too much straw may come to be a haven for mice or other rodents, so don't get too deep with your mulch. If you Pick not to mulch, rototill or hand-pull the weeds between the rows and hand-pull the weeds around the plants.

Hydrating (Watering) Raspberries
As mentioned above, mulching will cut your need to water your growing raspberries, but you'll still need to water between 1 and 2 inches per week all summer. It's all the time a best institution to avoid overhead watering, but if you have no other option, water early in the day to avoid too much dampness in your plants which can lead to fungal diseases. If your soil is sandy, you may need to water less volume but more frequently. Don't over-water as raspberry roots require a good number of oxygen.

Companion Planting and Rotation Considerations
Turnips and yarrow are determined good companions to raspberries as they repel the Harlequin Beetle. Garlic accumulates sulfur which is a natural fungicide. Coupled with raspberries, garlic will preclude fungal diseases. It is also sufficient in holding many insect pests at bay as well. Tansy is a poisonous flow which repels discrete pests including ants, Japanese beetles, cucumber beetles, and squash bugs. Don't let it spread to your pasture, though, as it's not good for some livestock. Wormwood, a bitter herb, repels insects and some animals. Don't eat it; you may get a pretty good stomach-ache too! As they're in the same family, keep raspberries out of area where blackberries, boysenberries, or loganberries are growing.

Don't plant around potatoes whether as they'll make your raspberries more prone to blight. Never re-plant a new raspberry patch where the old one has been. However, if your soil is uninfected by fungal diseases, nematodes, or other pathogens, you should be able to leave your raspberry patch in the same location up to 15 years. Avoid verticillium wilt by avoiding planting raspberries everywhere eggplant, tomatoes, potatoes, or strawberries have been planted in the past 5 years.

Harvesting Raspberries
When raspberries are a spirited red and are actually removed from the canes, they're ready to pick. If you've had a new rain, make sure to pick the ripe berries immediately or they'll mold within half a day if it's warm. If it is breezy, it'll dry things out before mold sets in. Harvest your berries early in the day when it's cool; they'll last longer. Harvest at least every other day while the height of the season. This will preclude your fruit from getting over-ripe and molding. When you pick raspberries, don't layer them more than a few deep or they'll turn the bottom layers to mush. Pick with care to avoid crushing these tender berries.

Storing Raspberries
Once you've picked your raspberries, refrigerate them as soon as you can. They'll keep up to a week in a cool refrigerator. Raspberries are great eaten fresh on ice cream, on flake cereals with half-and-half, or on shortcake with whipped cream, to name a few delightful ways to gain weight. Raspberries make excellent jam (with and without seeds), and are good freezing whole or pureed. If you puree raspberries and strain out the seeds, put them in ice trays and frost them for smoothies. Mmmm! If you don't mind seedy smoothies, just frost the berries whole on jelly roll pans, then take off to zip lock-style bags or plastic cartons for later usage. You can also spread pureed and strained raspberries in pans, place in the oven at very low temp, and make raspberry fruit leather. We did this when I was a kid, but I haven't done it recently.

Preventative and Natural Solutions to coarse Pests
Sap Beetles love to eat over-ripe raspberries. They're also known as "picnic" beetles. Sap beetles are about quarter inch long and black with 4 yellow-orange spots on their backs. The easiest way to preclude an infestation of this beetle is to not allow your berries to get over-ripe. You can pick these beetles to cut their numbers, dropping them into a bucket of soapy water to drown them. Aphids are tiny limited pests that come in a collection of colors from green to brown to red to black. Aphids typically congregate on the undersides of your raspberry plant leaves, sucking the sap from the leaves and leaving a sticky residue called "honeydew" behind. If you see leaves crinkling up you'll likely find aphids on the leaves.

Aphids can be controlled by removing the infected leaves and destroying them along with the attached aphids. You can also spray them with an organic insecticidal soap spray, or even knock them off with a pressure-spray nozzle, although it's best not to get your plants wet while harvest-time. Cane borers chew into your canes to lay eggs and feed on the inside of the canes. The larvae also feed on the inside of the canes as well. If you examine these pests, cut down any affected canes an inch below where wilting is occurring and destroy them.

If the infestation is heavy, organic rotenone powder may be used, but use this as a last ditch exertion as it will also kill pollinating insects which is extremely undesirable. Leaf rollers are the larvae of a small moth that are about 3/4 of an inch long, pale green or light brown, and have dark heads. Leaf rollers will eat raspberries, and when ready to form a cocoon will weave a silky web on a leaf and roll it inwards. Hence the name "leaf roller." Parasitic wasps and flies can be imported to rid your patch of these pests. You can also use organic Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) if the infestation is severe. It's best not to use even organic pesticides, though, unless actually necessary, as they take out both good and bad bugs.

Spider mites are tiny pests, that, if you look at under a microscope, have eight legs. Spider mites clump on the undersides of raspberry leaves, sucking sap and creating yellow spots on the leaves. Spider mites seem to be the worst in drought conditions when the plants are weaker. Spraying these mites with water can get rid of them if they're not too plentiful. Insecticidal soap spray can also take care of them. Avoid using too much nitrogen on your raspberries as it seems to encourage both mites and aphids.

Raspberry diseases and cures
Winter injury may occur in your raspberry plants if winter temperatures drop below -20°F. Purple and black raspberries may be damage at -5°F. Mulching raspberries will preclude most damage from occurring. Anthracnose is a reddish-purple lesion that shows up on primocanes. The centers of the lesions turn gray to brown over time and the margins come to be raised and purplish. These lesions will girdle the canes and cause them to dry and crack, often killing them. If they survive winter, the floricanes will furnish irregular fruit and branches. The best prevention, if anthracnose is coarse in your region, is to purchase resistant varieties. It also helps to operate weeds, and water early in the day or use drip irrigation as anthracnose is spread by splashing water. Applying lime sulfur while the early spring can also cut anthracnose.

Cane blight appears as lesions that may be gray, black, or brown and appear like pimples. Infected canes often come to be fragile and break near the lesion. The canes may wilt, and auxiliary branches may die. The best arresting is purchasing blight resistant stock before planting if it's a qoute in your area. Avoid overhead watering for the same reasons as in the anthracnose section above and operate the weeds. Destroy any infected canes, and apply lime sulfur in the early spring if your plants had any infection the previous year. Spur blight is Another blight that causes lesions on the nodes of primocanes. The infections starts on the leaves and moves to the stem.

The infected leaves turn yellow and brown and die. The cane lesions appear purplish to brown. The following spring any buds near the infection will not bloom. The best cure is arresting by planting resistant varieties. Avoid overhead irrigation and too much nitrogen. operate the weeds. Thin the canes. Plant in well-drained soil. Apply lime sulfur in the early spring if your plants had any infection the previous year. Gray mold causes raspberries to rot and blossoms to rot as well. It is spurred on by cool, wet weather. Purchasing resistant varieties is the best preventative against gray mold.

Using drip irrigation can help preclude the mold. Don't over-fertilize. operate weeds. take off infected canes. Don't overwater. Harvest ripe berries promptly. Phytophthora Root Rot is caused by a soil-borne fungus. Symptoms comprise yellowing and wilting leaves, water-soaked lesions near the base of the canes, and reddish-brown root tissue. Over-saturated soil is often a cause of Phytophthora Root Rot and can be prevented by planting your canes in well-drained soil, not over-watering, purchasing resistant varieties, and controlling weeds. Verticillium Wilt is Another soil-borne fungus that can cause the entire raspberry cane to wilt and die. The sapwood of infected canes will often be stained reddish-brown. To avoid verticillium wilt, purchase resistant varieties, plant them in well-drained soil or raised beds, don't over-water, use drip irrigation if possible, thin the canes, and destroy infected plants if you have an outbreak.

Raspberry Leaf Spot shows up on the top outside of raspberry leaves as tan, white, or grayish spots. Sometimes the town of the spot will drop out, development it appear as though the leaf has been shot. The arresting of this disease is the same as the diseases already discusssed - purchase resistant varieties, plant them in well-drained soil or raised beds, don't over-water, use drip irrigation if possible, thin the canes, and destroy infected plants if you have an outbreak. Powdery Mildew appears on the underside of leaves as a gray to white powdery growth. While it is coarse to raspberries, it's not ordinarily a major qoute to the condition of your plants. The arresting of this disease is the same as the diseases already discusssed - purchase resistant varieties, plant them in well-drained soil or raised beds, don't over-water, use drip irrigation if possible, and thin the canes to allow good air circulation. Rust Fungi appears on both sides of raspberry leaves as yellowish-orange spots. They typically don't work on the condition of the plants or fruit of red raspberries, but can be a serious threat to black raspberries.

Again, purchase resistant varieties, plant them in well-drained soil or raised beds, don't over-water, use drip irrigation if possible, thin the canes to allow good air circulation, and take off and destroy any infected black raspberry canes.

Growing Organic Raspberries

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nearby the Fridge - Cabinet building

To give our kitchens a more spirited and pleasing, we can add more storehouse areas to it. Cabinets are the most notices part of every kitchen. Actually, it is the one that gives life into the entire kitchen. A cabinet colse to the fridge will be a exquisite one to have. It will generate a more classy yet elegant look into our kitchens. We can generate this with just a few easy procedures:

First, we need to supply all the materials that we will need. These are:

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· Flexible measuring tape
· Molding
· Wood screws
· Drill
· Stain
· finished plywood
· 1/4 inch wood for the backing
· Cabinet door hinges

After conference and establishment all the materials, we now go to the building of our colse to the fridge cabinet. At first, it will seem a bit complex for we know that colse to the fridge have lots of separate measurements. This is the main task on this project: to portion properly. We need to make sure that all will fit into their proper places or else we have to do it from the start again.

First we will portion the size of the fridge. Depends on how wide our fridge is. Typical refrigerators have a 30-inche wide body. The duplicate door ones are 36 inches wide. We need to make sure that we will not damage our fridge once we already have our cabinets colse to it. We need to pay attentiveness on the hinges and the doors of the cabinets goes with the doors of the fridge. Once we are occasion and windup them, none of each should touch each other.

We also need to conclude the depth of the cabinet should be. If we want it to the same as with the fridge or if it will exceed a little, we need to get the exact measurements that we want. We also need to conclude how much clearance we want on each side. The recommended clearance is 5/4 to 1 inch clearance.

Choosing the wood will depend on what we have for the rest of the kitchen cabinets. It should match with the others in the kitchen. If we use used easy plywood with the existing cabinets, then that is the exact same wood we should use for our fridge cabinets.

After all the deciding, we now go to the building of the cabinets. The only difficult part of this is the measurements before the cutting. We need to make sure that we measured all correctly before the final cutting. Then we go to the fun part which is putting all the parts together.

If they are assembled together, we can now desist our colse to the fridge cabinets by finishing them with either paint or stain, also depending on what colors we have with our existing cabinets.

After that we can now slide the cabinets colse to our fridge and enjoy our new kitchen look.

nearby the Fridge - Cabinet building

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organize Your Own Kitchen - settle Your Needs and part the Space

Design Your Own Kitchen - Here's How

Article #1 - Defining Goals-Storage Capacity.

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This is the first in a series of articles about designing your own new or remodel kitchen. I will cover creating written plans and drawings, cabinet types, after-market hardware, ventilation, trim elements, plumbing, countertops, electrical / lighting systems, windows and undertaker of a package deal selection among other goodies. In other words, most of the topics that would be covered by a kitchen design pro while a design / remodel process.

The articles in the series toddle in logical order from basic design considerations to facility tips. You do not have to be an uber handyman to understand the concepts I'm presenting. On the contrary, a lack of preliminary knowledge on the part of the reader might be a good thing. Such a reader might be more inclined to de facto consider some of the ideas presented without pre-conceived notions or prejudices. Some of the best kitchens are designed by artistic types who know tiny to nothing about building but are clear about their needs.

I spent practically 10 years as a full-time commissioned kitchen designer. In that time I designed hundreds of kitchens and oversaw the facility of virtually all of them. I no longer work in the field so I have no financial incentive to suggest any singular products or methods. My sole intention is to show you what works and to help you straight through the process. Whether you design / install your own kitchen or have the work done by a studio, independent undertaker of a package deal or other source, I hope you find this data usefu in planning a well idea out and workable kitchen design.

Once the decision is made to remodel or install a new kitchen the tendency is to jump ahead and immediately start seeing at catalogs and visiting showrooms for "inspiration". My advice: resist the temptation. Why? Because you must define the workspace functionally in a very definite way before you even start thinking about "product". At this point, showrooms are a distraction. Function drives form, not the other way around-so let's take things in their logical order, plan first, shop later.

First, a tiny considerable lingo to get you talkin' the trade. Cabinets on walls over the countertops are referred to as "walls", cabinets sitting under countertops are called "bases" and "talls" are cabinets that run from floor to ceiling, commonly as pantries or similar. A market order for cabinets will list them in that order; Wall, Base, Tall. Sometimes cabinets are also called "boxes" for short, as in "How many boxes in this order?" or "These boxes are de facto nice..." Makes you sound like you are in the know...

Your absolute, don't skip, must do-first step is to take inventory of your anticipated warehouse needs. If you fail this step, you could end up spending mucho bucks for a kitchen that does not have sufficient cabinets to store all your cooking equipment and food. A safe bet bummer, as they say in the trade.

If you're remodeling, you'll portion the existing kitchen. If you are beginning from scratch, go find a kitchen that looks about right and portion it. You're going to swiftly learn the discrepancy between what a kitchen with 150 cubic feet of warehouse looks like and one with 300 cubic feet. Forget about door styles, island designs and fancy stoves. For now consolidate on insight the key portion of warehouse capacity-cubic footage. We'll get to the other stuff later, I promise.

In the kitchen industry, warehouse capacity is measured in cubic feet. Cubic footage is calculated as width x height x depth of a cabinet or cabinet run, in that order. You're going to portion the warehouse capacity of your base, wall and tall cabinets in your current or person else's kitchen. Since practically all cabinets that you will be encountering have thorough depths and heights, all you have to worry about is the total run of cabinets being measured. I'll show you how and give a consolidate of examples to ensure that you're doing this correctly.

Remember to do all calculations and descriptions of cabinet dimensions in the order wide, high, deep (Whd). To keep things uncomplicated I like to do all my capacity calculations in feet, but I'll show both ways.

Wall cabinets are commonly 12" deep and Whether 30", 36" or 42" tall. Therefore an 11' run of 30" high wall cabinets, using inch calculations, would be:

132" x 30" x 12" = 47,520 (132" is 11 feet x 12" per foot)

47,520 / 1,728 = 27 ½ cubic feet of wall cabinets (1,728 is the whole of cubic inches in 1 cubic foot or 12" x 12" x 12")

So your 11' run of 30" high wall cabinets is 27 ½ cubic feet of storage.

Calculated in feet rather than inches, the following would be definite for the above:

11' x 2.5' x 1' =27.5 cubic feet.

Base cabinets are just the same only they are 34½ " high x 24" deep. I typically round the 34½" value to 3' when doing calculations in feet-close enough.

Example: 16' run of base cabinets, calculations in inches:

192" x 34½" x 24" = 158,976

158,976 / 1,728 = 92 cubic feet.

Calculated in feet:

16' x 3' x 2' = 96 cubic feet.

Tall cabinets are Whether 12" or 24" deep depending on the design.

The calculation of the warehouse capacity does not have to be exact, within 5% is good enough. Here are some things to keep in mind when running your measurements:

* Do not consist of the cabinet door in the depth measurements, you're only measuring the "carcase" or actual box dimensions. Keep it simple!

* When measuring an "L" shaped run, do not portion the inside of the "L" twice, portion the whole length of one side, portion the total length of the other side and deduct Whether 24" for bases or 12" for walls.

* Do not consist of the width of appliances in the determination in a run, i.e. Deduct 30" for a stove and 24" for a dishwasher in a run.

* consist of the width of all sink cabinets in a run.

* Don't forget the cabinet over the refrigerator.

* bottom line, if it's a cabinet, consist of it in the run. If it's empty space like a refrigerator, stove or dishwasher bay, leave it out of your warehouse measurements.

Let's assume you've just terminated measuring your existing layout that you plan on remodeling and it came in at 225 cubic feet. This is your benchmark number.

Here's what you do next. Round up all the loose items presently stored oustide the kitchen that you want to consist of in the new design; extra canned food in the garage, brooms or maybe a vacuum in the hall closet, cooking tools you're lusting after, roaster pan presently stored in the tool shed, you name it. Now go get yourself some cardboard boxes, store all that stuff and portion the cubic footage of the boxes. Be sure to load the boxes in a similar manner as you would load a kitchen cabinet-no cramming allowed. Add your extra cubic footage requirement to the existing kitchen and you now have the real number. Congrats! You've completed step one. Now it's time to think about potential solutions.

So, how much capacity are you adding to the existing layout? 10-25-50%, more?

The examine becomes; "Where will the extra capacity come from?" To meet your goals you Whether optimize the existing space or configure a new floor plan.

Some potential answers to consider, organized from bottom to top cost:

* The over-fridge cabinet should be 24" deep, bet yours is 12" deep. There's 3 supplementary cubic feet.

* Many kitchens with 8' ceilings have 30" high upper cabinets. These can be expanded to 36" or even 42" high cabinets. A 42" high cabinet has 1 extra cubic foot of warehouse per lineal foot compared to a 30" high cab, this adds up if you have a lot of wall space available.

* Hang double-sided cabinets over an existing peninsula.

* Base cabinets with half-depth shelves waste tons of space. Retrofit with ball-bearing rollout trays everywhere.

* Countertop cabinets called hutches can be used to fill odd counter spaces, they are 12-15" deep and in a kitchen with 8' ceilings could be 48" to 54" high. That's 4 cubic feet per linear feet of run.

* Many kitchens have "blind" interior corners in the base and wall runs. A base lazy susan reclaims 12 cubic feet. A "pie cut" wall cabinet gets you 3 supplementary cubes.

* consider replacing part of a wall / base run with a 24" deep pantry unit with rollouts in the bottom and tray dividers up top. You can even get these configured to hold a broom or vacuum.

* If the kitchen abuts a stable wall, build a bay into the stable space and stuff it full of pantry storage.

* Reorganize the kitchen into a double L or L with Island configuration. Done correctly, these are very efficient uses of space.

* Annex part of an adjoining room as new kitchen space.

* Move walls, doors, windows and partitions to claim more real estate for a modified floor plan.

* enlarge the floor plan into new territory by building a bay, a new room or similar. Involves a new foundation, walls and roof line.

* Sell the house, buy a bigger one.

Congratulations, you're well on the way to mastering the process.

organize Your Own Kitchen - settle Your Needs and part the Space

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How Vinyl Strip Doors Work In Both Warm And Cold Environments

The most basic and prudent fence to isolate two spaces is a "door" made of overlapping strips of clear or tinted flexible plastic often known as strip curtains or vinyl strip doors. Vinyl strip doors are found in many dissimilar industries, and can be used in a wide range of applications. Read on to learn all about the convenience and versatility of this innovative invention principal for any storage or material handling company.

The most base use for vinyl strip doors is as a secondary fence in structure or warehouses where the former door will be left open for extended periods to assist workflow. They can be used both in warm and cold environments to keep a climatic characteristic differential. They can also be configured to accommodate dissimilar sorts of traffic.

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Vinyl strip doors work in both warm and cold environments to keep heat in, keep cold in, keep heat out and/or keep cold out. They can be used inside of cooler doors, refrigerator doors, freezer doors or even inside of overhead dock doors where controlling environmental conditions such as moisture, cooling or heating will not only safe supplies and equipment, but save on vigor costs as well. They also cut vigor costs by keeping cold air inside and warmer air outside, and help food and perishables expand their shelf life by up to 50%. In addition, compressors work less, thereby reducing refrigerator/freezer maintenance costs.

Vinyl strip doors enhance traffic flow within work areas by speeding up the movement of employees, tool or materials between two areas in your building by eliminating the need to stop, open, move straight through and manually close doors. They can be altered by overlap ration to allow for dissimilar types of entry, from forklift trucks to foot traffic.

Last but not least, vinyl strip doors supply protection against noise, wind, fumes, pollution, dust and dirt, helping to supply a more comfortable work environment for employees, and increasing employee productivity. They minimize hot and cold weather from entering the building, and also work to minimize birds and pests from entering and contaminating products and shelves and/or bothering employees.

Vinyl strip doors come in a range of sizes, thicknesses and overlap for all door configurations. Strip thicknesses generally range from.180 all the way up to.250 inches and should be chosen based on the application. A door made made with.250 inch thick strips is too heavy for a person to walk through, but a forklift may do fine, while on the flip side,.180 is fine for a person to walk through, but would not stand up to forklift traffic very well. 33% overlap for foot traffic and small climatic characteristic differentials may make sense, where 100% might be what you wish for forklift access and higher climatic characteristic differentials and windy conditions.

Vinyl strip doors are easy to install, sound and if necessary, repair or replace. They can be wall or header mounted. A header mounted unit fits within a door jam with universal galvanized hardware (or at times aluminum). Wall mounted configurations have the strips mounted above the door. Quest for vinyl strip doors online to increase employee productivity and save vigor costs today!

How Vinyl Strip Doors Work In Both Warm And Cold Environments

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Style reinforced by the strength of steel. With a new stainless-clad dispenser and an ice system with an all-metal auger, this 22 cu. ft. French door bottom-freezer boasts dependable dispensing and outstanding ice production. Makes up to 5 lbs. of ice in 24 hours. Also features sturdy metal handles and fits a 33 opening.

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Frigidaire Refrigerators And Freezers - Types

When choosing Frigidaire refrigerators or freezers for your home the amount of available models can make the task seem rather daunting. Not only are there hundreds of dissimilar Frigidaire refrigerator freezers to choose from, there are also a mammoth amount of dissimilar categories. In this description I provide a overview of all the dissimilar types of Frigidaire Refrigerators and Freezers on the market.

Frigidaire Top Freezer Refrigerators

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First on any list of Frigidaire refrigerators are the top mount freezer units. These traditional style refrigerator freezers are the appliance of choice for any homeowner on a tight budget. For below five hundred dollars a perfectly serviceable cheap refrigerator can be purchased that will fit well in approximately any kitchen.

Frigidaire Side-By-Side Refrigerators

Going up-scale a tiny bit Frigidaire's American style line of side-by-side refrigerators are also big sellers. With a wide choice to choose from, these models come at prices convenient for whatever who has more than the most restricted of budgets - fluctuating from nine hundred for a basic unit up o twenty-four hundred dollars for the higher end fridge freezers.

Frigidaire French Door Refrigerators

Nicer yet are Frigidaire French door refrigerator units. This type of fridge has gained in popularity in modern years and is starting to supplant the side-by-side in sales numbers. These units are rather pricey - a basic unit runs fifteen hundred, and the top notch models will set buyers back twenty-eight hundred dollars.

Frigidaire Counter Depth Refrigerators

Another high end Frigidaire refrigeration choice is their counter depth refrigerators freezers. These units give up some depth - and a tiny volume - in order to offer a form factor that when installed does not protrude past the kitchen countertops. This is a beloved aesthetic to many homeowners, but it does not come cheap. Prices range from seventeen to twenty-three hundred dollars for a Frigidaire refrigerator of this type.

Frigidaire All Refrigerators

Buyers who have no need for a Frigidaire freezer have the choice of purchasing stand-alone refrigerators from Frigidaire. With prices from six hundred for the entry-level model up to twelve hundred for the top of the line these are relatively modestly priced Frigidaire appliances.

Frigidaire Wine storage Refrigerators

Wine and bar fridges are all the rage in some circles. Frigidaire offers a line of wine coolers at prices from as low as two hundred dollars to as high as five hundred. They also produce a beverage cooler intended for cooling large numbers of cans - a great bar refrigerator - for five hundred dollars.

Frigidaire covenant Refrigerators

Small refrigerators are also available from Frigidaire. A allocation of one to three hundred dollars will get you a Frigidaire covenant refrigerator freezer excellent for use as a second fridge. This type of appliance makes a great movable fridge, and many are purchased specifically for that reason.

Frigidaire Refrigerators And Freezers - Types

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• External Water/Ice Dispenser

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Propane Water Heater - Three energy recovery Tips

Do you know how much of an median household's total vigor use goes to water heating? 14%; it is ordinarily the second largest part of your vigor bill. We use hot water throughout the whole year so any energy-saving strategy will make a big difference. Here are three tips to cut your water heating bill by one-fourth or more.

Insulate the water heater tank and hot water pipes: First, you have to check if your propane water heater needs insulation. Most of the new water heaters already have enough and no added insulation is necessary. After checking that, then you can use foam wrap to insulate the hot water pipes all over the house. Insulating your water heater and hot water pipes will make a big incompatibility and it will honestly pay for itself in less than a year. You should also insulate the first few feet of the cold water pipe nearest the heater. Make sure you keep the foam insulation at least three inches from the heater drafthood and exhaust vent. You can use a fiberglass insulation blanket to wrap your propane water heater. These insulation kits are widely available at minimal cost. Make sure you leave the top and the area near the lowest open so that the pilot and burner can have air and your heater works properly. Also the control panel should not be insulated. (Make sure you read the safety instructions and not do anything against them. It is very recommended that you should consult a pro for insulation.)

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Turn down the temperature: There is no need for water to be hotter than 120 - 125 degrees Fahrenheit. Higher temperatures are not only a waste but also a danger, especially for children. If the control panel of your water heater does not have temperatures, you can use a cooking thermometer to check the temperature of the water in your sink or bath and then determine where to set the button to get a temperature of 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Also if you think you need honestly hot water to sterilize your dishes and clothes, let me tell you that it is nothing more than a myth. You can set the button to the hottest, still your dishes and clothes will not be sterilized.

Repair or Replace: Statistically the median lifetime of a water heater is 12 years. Although with quarterly maintenance and disposition repairs it can be two or three times longer, it is not always to your advantage to keep the old units. The new, energy-saving water heaters will pay for themselves within 3-5 years. You can replace practically all components of a water heater except the tank itself, so when the tank rusts through the only solution is to replace the water heater. There are internal anode rods that safe the water heater against rusting. Replacing these anodes every 3-4 years will considerably add to the life of the water heater.

Another qoute with your water heater can be the overheating from sediment build-up inside the tank. You should also have it inspected along with the anodes periodically. Some associates offer warranties of 10 years or even lifetime which are worth seeing into.

Propane Water Heater - Three energy recovery Tips

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general Tips for Chandelier in a Dining Room

Mounted fixtures have a dual purpose. They don't just illuminate a room; they also contribute aesthetic appeal to it by bringing beauty and personality into your room. Unlike lamps that one can move around, chandeliers are more permanent. Hence, allowable positioning is required for these luminous adornments to work well and look good. The first tip in selecting a chandelier relates to size. One must think the proportion between the size of the room and the size of the chandelier. A chandelier that is too small for a room will look isolated. On the other hand, one that is too large for a room will appear cluttering. With a rich variety of chandeliers available today, chances are high for looking the exquisite one that matches any home. Creativity is very much complex in selecting a chandelier with a wide range of designs, finishes and styles to pick from. Each chandelier adds a touch of elegance to any room and vibrancy into the domestic atmosphere. Chandelier styles can range from explicate and large to minimalist and aesthetically pleasing. Chandeliers can complement other lighting very positively and will positively add value to one's home.

When selecting a dining room chandelier, in particular, attentiveness to proportions becomes magnified. The fixture must neither dominate a table nor look too insignificant. The best thing to do is to quantum width and length of the dining table (or the diameter for a round table) and think these measurements in shopping. As a rule of thumb, the span of the chandelier must be 12 inches shorter than the table's width (or diameter).

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To ensure a new light will be securely supported, the ceiling electrical box must be checked before one begins the premise of the chandelier. When hanging over a dining table, the chandelier must be aligned with the center of the dining table with a 30-to 33-inch gap between the tabletop and the lowest of the chandelier. The purpose of the gap is to preclude any bumped heads. Chandeliers for other rooms should be settled ordinarily higher than 8 feet above the floor in the middle of the room or foyer for safety and style. If the electrical connection on the ceiling does not work with the center of the dining table, add a heavy-duty attractive hook on the ceiling above the table center, and then attach a length of chain to carry the wiring from the electrical connection to the hook.

With regards to selecting the right bulbs to buy, one should decrease the watt rating of the bulb larger numbers of bulbs are required. A chandelier with three or more light sockets is probably more superior to 40 watt bulbs. Once precise bulbs are chosen and installed, the chandelier should give off adequate light coverage without blinding anyone. Dimmer controls are recommended since they allow adjustment of the light intensity agreeing to needs.

It is always a good idea to clean the chandelier at least once a year to utter its beauty and shine. Before one starts with the cleaning process, the light bulbs must have been off for at least 10 minutes so the bulbs can cool down. For safety reasons, one must never clean the chandelier while the lights are on. It could either lead to a burnt hand, or worse to electrocution. If the pieces have to be dismantled, one must do so in sections or draw up a picture of how the components fit together. This will mitigate any frustration and obscuring at the moment the pieces have to be reassembled together. Also place a blanket under the chandelier to catch any pieces of it that may fall. Keep the chandelier in the same place as you clean and do not turn it colse to as this may strain the power cable.

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general Tips for Chandelier in a Dining Room

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